The biggest trend at NYFW? Sustainability.

In an era where sustainability is at the forefront of fashion professionals’ minds, NYFW can be a conflicting ordeal. On the one hand, fashion week is a cultural phenomenon; it is more of an event meant to curate brand image, as opposed to setting trends for upcoming seasons. Looks are often dramatic, unwearable, and therefore pretty wasteful. They’re meant to build on a fantasy of a brand, a concept, and RTW items usually only follow a loose – interpretation of those looks. On the upside, runway creations are treated as investments, a work of art rather than a disposable item. However, they’re often not very useful – most of the items will only be worn once or twice, if at all. And the presentation of the items is simply a performance, as seasonal runway shows (and NYFW as a whole) don’t necessarily serve any other purpose than to stimulate publicity.

Fashion Revolution, worldwide organization of professionals advocating for ethical fashion, has called for a “rebirth” of fashion week; a rebirth focused on functionality rather than excess. And whether in response to Fashion Revolution or in response to consumer standards; brands have responded.

Simplicity at The Row SS 2020
Image result for mansur gavriel cloud sweater
Colorful functionality at Mansur Gavriel SS 2020

Very popular brands like Staud, The Row, and Tibi produced collections that were, surprisingly, wearable. This is in stark contrast to the tradition of producing over-the-top, conceptual designs that can be seen as waste of fabric to some.

A garment with a large amount of fabric usage, by Tomo Koizumi FW 2019 (last year)

Other designers took it a step further, like Gabriela Hearst, who staged the first carbon-neutral fashion show. She also served farm-to-table refreshments, adorned every seat with a silk scarf patterned with extinct insects, handed out reusable bags, and donated to Our Children’s Fund in honor of every one of her show’s attendees.

Gabriela Hearst

With designers shifting towards quality basics, it has been hard to even gage specific trends this NYFW. One trend that we know of for sure? Sustainability-first design.

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